黑川溫泉是熊本縣、阿蘇山附近，圍繞田之原川溪谷而成的溫泉鄉，開發至今有超過60年歷史；我覺得很特別的是，該地區的溫泉協會將商業模式統合，不僅有官網介紹飯店與商家，更販售可在多家旅館使用的「入湯手形」，讓遊客在一定期間內用划算的價格體驗不同風格的溫泉池
訂阿蘇山當天的住宿時，原先最想試的界阿蘇已客滿，決定往黑川溫泉一帶尋找有興趣的溫泉旅館，幸好在超級旺季中發現位在溪谷上游的奧之湯還有空房，便直接下訂一泊二食的住宿
飯店傳統氛圍濃厚，但設備不會過於老舊，住起來還是很舒適的！對我來說稍微可惜的是距離熱鬧的老街和主要放置冬季「湯明」點燈的丸鈴橋稍遠，不想在低溫裡步行太久的話，活動範圍就會比較受限
Kurokawa Onsen is a hot spring village in Kumamoto Prefecture near Mount Aso, developed around the Tanohara River valley with a history of more than 60 years. What I found especially unique is that the local hot spring association has integrated the business across the area. In addition to an official website introducing the hotels and shops, they also sell “onsen pass” that can be used at multiple hotels, allowing visitors to experience different styles of hot springs at a good value within a set period.
When booking accommodation for our Aso visit, the place I most wanted to try, KAI Aso, was already fully booked. So I shifted my search to the Kurokawa Onsen area and looked for a hotel that interested me. Luckily, even during peak season, I found that Kurokawa Onsen Okunoyu, located upstream in the valley, still had availability, so I immediately booked a one-night stay with two meals included.
The hotel has a strong traditional atmosphere, but the facilities are not overly outdated, so the stay was still very comfortable. The only small downside for me was that it is a bit far from the main street and Marusuzu Bridge, where the winter “Yuakari” bamboo lantern illumination is displayed. If you don’t want to walk too long in low temperatures, your activity range can feel slightly limited.
是當地居民及工作人員手工製作的竹製球狀燈
每年 12 月中至 3 月底期間限定
The “Yuakari” illumination at Marusuzu Bridge features handmade spherical bamboo lanterns crafted by local residents and staff, and is available from mid-December through the end of March each year.
預訂
用黑川溫泉旅遊旅館協會官網找當地旅館清單，再逐一比對評價和是否有空房；奧之湯有官網供預訂，不過我們訂的時候官網也售罄了，最後是在 Booking.com 找到僅剩的一間房
預訂後飯店會透過平台傳英文訊息確認交通方式、入住人數和性別、飲食禁忌等，溝通無礙
黑川溫泉旅遊旅館協會官網：https://www.kurokawaonsen.or.jp/zh_tw/oyado/
奧之湯飯店官網：https://www.okunoyu.com/zh-tw/
Reservations
I used the official website of Kurokawa Onsen Ryokan Association to browse the list of local hotels, then compared reviews and availability one by one. Okunoyu has its own official website for reservations, but it was sold out when we checked. In the end, we found the last available room on Booking.com. After booking, the hotel contacted us through the platform in English to confirm transportation method, number and gender of guests, and any dietary restrictions — communication was smooth and easy.
Kurokawa Onsen Ryokan Association: https://www.kurokawaonsen.or.jp/en/oyado/
Okunoyu: https://www.okunoyu.com/en/
交通
我們是從阿蘇車站自駕前往，開到飯店門口後由服務人員代為停車，停車處距離門口僅幾步之遙
飯店官網有各種交通方式的說明，若冬季前往，務必將降雪可能造成的影響納入考量
Transportation
We drove from Aso Station to the hotel. After arriving at the entrance, the staff parked the car for us; the parking area is only a few steps away.
The hotel website provides instructions for various transportation methods. If visiting in winter, be sure to consider the possible impact of snowfall.
房型
預訂時只剩下獨棟式別屋 ｢竹林別館｣，附和室（可鋪床作和式寢室）、西式寢室、半露天浴池和面對溪流的陽台，可容納 2-8 人
雖然寒冷的冬季要在室外走 80 公尺左右才能到本館用餐、使用公共浴場和特定溫泉池，不過我覺得步行距離在可接受範圍
Room Type
At the time of booking, only “The standalone bamboo annex” was available. It includes a tatami room (which can be prepared with futons), a Western-style bedroom, a semi-open-air bath, a balcony facing the stream, and can accommodate 2–8 guests.
Although in the cold winter you need to walk about 80 meters outdoors to reach the main building for meals and the public baths, I found the distance acceptable.
房務人員會索取鑰匙
到房內協助鋪床
During dinner, the staff collect the room key and help prepare the futons in the room.
及在路上買的阿蘇牛奶
就能自製超好喝的鮮奶茶
Using the black tea bag and sugar packets from the minibar, plus Aso milk we bought on the way, we were able to make an excellent milk tea ourselves.
公共空間
奧之湯最有名的就是多樣化的溫泉浴池，當中露天浴池、面對田之原川的河浴池、洞窟浴池為男女混浴（20:00-22:00為女性限定時段），室內大浴場為男女分開，，私人湯屋數間需向櫃檯拿取鑰匙，另有溫泉溫水游泳池一座
不過我怕冷怕黑又不想混浴，只使用到室內大浴場，其餘時間在房內私人湯屋就很滿足了！
Public Facilities
Okunoyu is best known for its wide variety of hot spring baths. The outdoor bath, the riverside bath, and the cave bath are mixed-gender (with women-only hours from 20:00–22:00). The large indoor public baths are separated by gender. There are also several private baths that require a key from the front desk, as well as a heated hot spring swimming pool.
Since I’m sensitive to cold and darkness and prefer not to use mixed baths, I only try the indoor public bath; the private bath in our room was more than satisfying for the rest of the time.
右側是獨棟房型
The path leading to the main building has the detached guest houses on the right side.
There is also an area where you can cook onsen eggs.
餐食
我們訂的方案含晚餐和早餐，入住時確認用餐時間，地點都在本館的餐廳
晚餐為時令食材的會席料理，有部分前菜吃不太懂，不過整體算精緻、營養均衡；早餐是傳統日式，另附優格、果汁、牛奶供自由取用
為了更完整、舒適的溫泉旅館體驗，我還是滿推薦在這裡用餐的
Meals
Our plan included both dinner and breakfast. We confirmed the meal times at check-in, and both were served in the restaurant in the main building. Dinner was a seasonal kaiseki course using fresh ingredients. I didn’t fully understand some of the appetizers, but overall it was refined and nutritionally balanced. Breakfast was traditional Japanese style, with yogurt, juice, and milk available for self-service.
For a more complete and comfortable ryokan experience, I would definitely recommend dining here.
晚餐 Dinner：
早餐 Breakfast：
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